How to Diagnose Knit Fitting Issues

Welcome to video #2 of the Fitting Knits video series!

Last week you got an inside peak at my online course The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice Block and I showed you how to determine the stretch ratio of your fabric which is an important first step in getting the right fit on your knit garments. This week I’m going to share a few insights on how to diagnose your knit fitting issues.

For this video, I’ve enlisted the help of Robin, who wrote to me in hope of getting some guidance on fitting her knit garment project.

Robin writes:

 Hi Alexandra,

I’ve been having trouble with all the tops I am making and can’t seem to figure out how to resolve them. I have spent hours on Youtube, the internet, books etc. I make my own patterns and have even used a commercial pattern, not to mention that every RTW shirt in my closet has the same fitting problems.

I can’t figure out how to get rid of the diagonal draglines from the back and bottom of the armhole/sleeve. I also think I have a swayback issue, or something like that since all my tops have extra fabric in the back and pool at my waist.  I’ve been trying to fix that with a horizontal seam or a vertical seam. What do you think I should do?

Robin’s email is dripping with frustration like many of the emails I receive. So I asked if she would be willing to share some photos of her project so that we all could learn from her experience, and she agreed. 

Robin is new to pattern making and is doing her best to learn more by watching videos, and going through a lot of trial and error on her own. She’s not yet a student of mine but she is on a path that I know many of you are on so I hope that using her knit project as an example will benefit you as well.

For the sake of a little added support with diagnosing your own fit issues, I want to share a little cheat sheet I created called The Good Fit Checklist. Inside, among other things, you’ll find a chart that will help you with "reading the wrinkles". The information inside is geared toward woven fabrics but you are going to see that fitting issues show up in knits exactly as they do in wovens.

If you’d like a roadmap to building your own personal stretch knit bodice block check out my online course! Each video lesson will give you step-by-step guidance as you draft and refine your block and I’ve even included a design project so you can start using your block right away. I hope you’ll take a look to see if it’s right for you. Just click the image below to get all the details.

See you soon!

All My Best,
Alexandra