Developing a Handmade Wardrobe: Part 2 The Debra Knit Top

There is no question that knit garments are comfortable to wear and quick to sew but while most would say they are also "easy to fit", you may have found that it's difficult to determine what the final outcome will be. This week I'm continuing with the series on developing a handmade wardrobe. I'll share some tips on how you can determine the fit of your next knit project before you sew.

In Part 1 of this series I shared the Miranda Skirt by Style Arc. In my wardrobe plan I paired the Miranda skirt with the Debra Zebra Knit Top. As I mentioned in the last video, I'm quite happy with the results. While the skirt required very few fit adjustments, the Debra Knit Top was a little more involved, so today, I'll share with you how I determined the fitting adjustments I needed to fit the pattern before I sewed. If you missed Part 1 of this series, you can see it HERE.

When sewing with knit fabrics it's important to understand its properties. My first step is always to pre-wash the fabric so that I'll be able to wash and dry the garment without any surprises. Next, I'll determine the fabrics stretch ratio. This particular fabric is a polyester/lycra blend with a stretch ratio of about 50%. It does stretch further but I didn't want to be overly aggressive just in case the funnel neck became too tight to pull over my head. Get more details on how to determine fabric stretch ratio.

Style Arc didn't indicate what stretch ratio to use so I did a little math to see how much stretch reduction was built into the pattern. Watch the video to see how it's done.

If you'd like to learn more about fabric stretch ratio and stretch fabric reductions, I invite you to explore my Custom Stretch Knit drafting courses. The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice and Skirt courses will show you step by step how to draft your custom stretch knit blocks using your personal body measurements and the stretch ratio of your chosen fabric.

• You'll learn how to calculate measurement reductions for the perfect amount of negative ease.
• You'll get instruction on constructing your garments as well as assessing and solving the most common fitting issues.
• You'll also learn how to make your finalized stretch knit block into a master pattern for each fabric stretch ratio.

These classes are the perfect introduction to pattern development for knit fabrics. CLICK HERE for more information.

Watch the video to learn how I use the stretch ratio of the fabric to determine the fit changes I need to make. To learn how to make a cup size adjustment for knits, watch this: How to Make a Bust Adjustment on a T-Shirt Pattern

Here's a look at the final result.

Did you learn something new by watching this video? If you're watching on YouTube, share your aha moment in the comments. If you know someone who might benefit from seeing this video, share a link to this video and invite them to learn along with you.

If you're interested in following my progress as I work through the development phase of the rest of my handmade wardrobe, sign up for the Perfect Fit Guide to add your name to my email list, subscribe to my YouTube channel or follow me on instagram @inhousepatterns, to stay in the loop. I'll be sharing my progress as I work through more of the garments in my handmade wardrobe plan.

Don't forget to check out my Custom Stretch Knit pattern making courses for more detail on how to create stretch knit garments that fit.

Thanks for watching, I'll chat with you soon!

All My Best,
Alexandra